The evolution of loungewear began in East Asia, around the 14the century. As Japan and China began to trade with the western civilizations, clothing styles were brought from east to west along with spices.
Dressed to stay home. The outfits we wear when going nowhere. Somewhere between the clothing we don before leaving the house and the clothing we wear to bed is the entire genre of loungewear. But how did we develop this distinct category of clothing? While we tend to think of loungewear as robes or housecoats for women, men have been wearing some form of dressing gown for centuries, originating in East Asia as kimonos and brought west by the Dutch East India Company in the 1600s. These robes were then known as banyan’s. Made from silk and worn by Shogun, they were rare and highly prized. The fabric was cut in a T shaped pattern and worn open and wrapped around the waist with a sash to close it.
Similar to the Banyan is the Choga, a long loose coat worn open, often over a shirt. Originally a Central Asian garment worn by men and often made of lightweight wool or silk, they were often embroidered along the shoulders and sleeves. Over the years these styles made their way to Europe, were adapted for the weather and became more accessible to the masses. As Britain maintained control of India, many Brits adopted the styles of these loose coats along with lightweight loose fitting pants similar to today’s pajamas.
For generations, this loose fitting casual clothing was reserved for men. With the onset of World War I, women began working for the war effort and required clothing that allowed them to move more easily. The looser fit styles and social requirements for women to wear pants while working in factories changed the way we dressed. These became utilitarian clothing, adaptable for both men and women.
Work wear slowly transitioned into casual wear, as designers like Coco Chanel created loose fitting colorful outfits meant to be worn in public known as “Beach Pajamas.” Once the war was over, high society began to loosen up and celebration was once again on the menu. Wealthy households held parties in massive homes and the dress was fancy yet casual. Evening pajamas or hostess gowns were worn by hostesses while entertaining their guests. The outfits were loose and flowing, done up with expensive fabrics and sparkling details such as beads, embroidery, and rhinestones. For men the look included silk loose fitting trousers with matching robes worn over a crisp collared shirt. Large lapels often embroidered or quilted in contrasting colors finished the casual elegant look.
For those who couldn’t afford these high priced looks there were more modesty priced outfits. Women could wear caftans, dressing gowns or peignoir sets, all meant to be worn at home. Often fancier than pajamas or modern lounge sets, these outfits were meant for leisure. The underlying notion that the wearer had a lifestyle allowing for time to relax and enjoy life rather than only working. The message was, I am affluent enough to enjoy the spoils of my efforts.
As comfort in clothing became mainstream and styles changed over time, loungewear changed as well. By the time we got to 2019 and the world shut down due to COVID-19, loungewear was everywhere. Suddenly we were all wearing sweatpants and stretchy workout clothing.
For more on hostess gowns and loungewear, here’s an article from The New York Times.
Dolce & Gabbana also has an article on pyjamas here.
