The Twirly History of the Circle Skirt

Anyone who wears skirts will tell you that it’s impossible not to test out the twirlability of a circle skirt. A work of both geometry and style, true circle skirts are fully round with a waist opening in the middle. And when you spin, they flare out in a way that is splendidly satisfying. You can’t think about 1950s fashion without thinking of circle skirts. But how and why circle skirts became a classic fashion icon goes back to rationing for victory during World War II.

Austerity for World War II extended beyond food and gasoline rationing right into the world of women’s attire. When the War Production board issued Regulation L-85 , also known as the “Utility Clothing Order,” in 1942, they were not playing around. The war effort needed all the silk, nylon, rubber and leather it could get, so reducing the use of those materials in women’s apparel was urgent. Some of the key clothing design restrictions in L-85 included: encouraging the use of cotton, rayon and wool instead of materials like silk, nylon and rubber; prohibiting design elements that used extra fabric like hoods, cuffs, and voluminous or elaborate designs; limitations on the number of buttons (3 only), length of zippers and number of pockets; and mandating that skirt lengths needed to be at least 14″ from the ground.

In the post-war world of 1947, an emerging designer named Christian Dior launched his debut collection. The “New Look” collection was the polar opposite of clothing made under the Utility Clothing Order. It featured long full skirts with netting for volume and jackets with padded shoulders and cinched waists. The ultra-feminine references to the turn of the century and before styles was clear. And the fashion press loved it.

While Dior was shaking things up in the couture world, in Hollywood, a resourceful but broke actress borrowed some felt from her mother’s factory to make a skirt to wear to a holiday party. Juli Lynne Charlot was not much of a seamstress. She cut a giant circle from the felt (to avoid having to sew a seam), cut a hole in the middle for a waist and added Christmas tree appliques.  The resulting skirt made her the belle of the party. She whipped up a couple more skirts and convinced a Beverly Hills boutique to sell them. They flew out the door. The boutique owner ordered more and in the twirl of a circle, a clothing company was born.

It wasn’t all spins and flares on the way to circle skirt domination for Juli Lynne. She was only 26 years old and had no idea how to run a clothing factory, let alone one with burgeoning demand. An intervention and investment from a successful clothing manufacturer helped her business grow to national prominence by 1953, selling at fine department stores like Neiman Marcus. Women loved the whimsy and wit of her applique designs. Let it be known that Juli Lynne is responsible for the iconic poodle skirt.

As go the fashion magazines, so go the popular trends. Between the luxuriousness of Dior and the whimsy of Juli Lynne, the 1950s became the golden era of the fitted bodice with the full circle skirt. Whether it was a fit and flare dress or a skirt worn with a tight blouse or sweater, it was one of the signature looks of the decade.

It’s a silhouette that remains popular with vintage lovers, hence there are plenty of new retro-inspired printed (not appliqued) circle skirts plus crinoline petticoats to choose from. But since we’re Vintage Unscripted, we think vintage is best. So we rounded up some vintage circle skirt beauties we found from online vintage sellers.

If you have some awesome fabric and feel inspired to make your own skirt (like Juli Lynne), Happiest Camper has a free circle skirt pattern and tutorial.

Sources:

Hidden Histories: When Women Protested Dior’s Famous ‘New Look,’ therosy.com

Dressing for War, the National Museum of American History

What Not to Wear: Clothing Rationing During World War II, Library of Congress Blogs

The actual text of Regulation L-85, starting on page 4, Federal Register from April 10, 1942

How the Poodle Skirt Came to Be, folkwear.com

Interview with Juli Lynne Charlot, the Vintage Traveler