The collaboration of Miriam Haskell and Frank Hess brought about some of the most popular costume jewelry of the 20th century. In 1926, Miriam Haskell opened the doors of her first jewelry boutique. That same year Frank Hess, a former window dresser for Macy’s, joined her as a jewelry designer. The pair worked together until 1950, when due to poor health she sold the company to her brother, Joseph. Frank Hess continued to design for the company until 1960.
As was the custom with many costume jewelry manufacturers of the time her items went unsigned for many years. Not until her brother took over the company were pieces regularly signed. Prior to that, the only signed pieces were created for a small New England boutique that insisted the items they carried be signed. Those items were marked with a small horseshoe and her name. Today they are quite rare. Due to the exceptional workmanship and styles as well as many still existing advertisements the company’s work is easy to distinguish.
In a time when men ran the jewelry business world, Miriam Haskell was an anomaly. She made the business decisions and ran the company. Frank Hess was head designer. Within just a few years, the pair went from a small shop inside New York’s McAlpin Hotel to multiple shops including Saks Fifth Ave, Burdines, and a London boutique. The beauty and quality of jewelry produced brought a heady clientele that included Joan Crawford, Lucille Ball, Gloria Vanderbilt, and the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson.
Her savvy business sense and Hess’s design skills meant the company could produce multiple collections each year. Collections were created around the seasons but were also designed to be priced at several ranges allowing them to be affordable for everyone from the very rich to the working-class woman. Items were designed so they could be easily created with more or less embellishment according to the price structure of each collection.
So there you have it! This week we celebrate the collaboration between Miriam Haskell and Frank Hess. Their jewelry creations are still popular almost one hundred years after they began working together.
For more information, Big Bead Little Bead has a fabulous article about Miriam Haskell and her jewelry. You can also find a wonderful collection of Miriam Haskell jewelry on the site Morning Glory Jewelry. There is a fabulous book as well about the company and jewelry produced called Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff.
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