Welcome to part 1 of a 4-part series on how to clean vintage clothing. Cleaning vintage clothing can be a challenge. We discuss determining fabrics, and stains, and how to handle both for the best results. Keep in mind that professionals have many tricks of the trade beyond the basics.
Vintage from the 1970s to 2000 will likely have tags with fiber content and washing instructions. A garment from before 1970 might have information tags, or it might not. Before you plunk it in the washing machine, it pays to do a little examining and experimenting so the most fabulous vintage dress you’ve ever seen doesn’t get transformed into a regretful mess. So how do you figure out how to clean it?
Start by looking at the type of fabric you are working with. Cleaning vintage clothing is easier if you know what kind of fiber it is made from. Is it natural, such as cotton, linen, silk, or wool? Or is it synthetic such as polyester, nylon, rayon, acrylic, or spandex? Next, are there any tags? If so they may have symbols rather than written instructions. Decipher the tags if possible. Here is a quick chart from Readers Digest to help you decipher those symbols. Is it washable or does it require dry cleaning? Keep in mind some fabrics marked as “dry clean only” can be washed by hand. But use caution and test a small discreet portion before plunging in, so to speak.
Next, check to see if the fabric is colorfast. Well, how do I do that, you may ask. Find an inconspicuous place to test, an inside seam, hem, or similar spot on the garment. Using a powder soap, liquid detergent, or liquid bleach mix up a solution similar in strength to what you would use to wash with (approximately 4 to 6 parts water to 1 part soap or bleach), take a cotton swab and dab just a bit on the fabric. Let it set for a minute, then blot dry with a white cloth or paper towel.
Did the color change? Is there dye on the towel? Yes? Your garment is likely, not colorfast. You may want to consult with a professional dry cleaner on this one. No? Congratulations, your garment has passed the test.
If you’re cleaning vintage fabric, it can be helpful to look at vintage sources for care tips. The Simplicity Sewing Book from 1958 has a detailed chart of different fabric types from that era, including cleaning suggestions. It’s excerpted in the chart below, featuring common vintage fabrics.
If the garment has minor stains or is too delicate to wash you may wish to spot-clean it rather than washing the whole garment.
Up next: Part 2 We get into how much cleaning your garment actually requires.
Part 3 goes into the various types of stains and how to tackle each one.
Part 4 talks about how to clean commonly found stains and build your arsenal of stain removal products.
